Welcome to the second in our new series of articles where we invite our members to pick five of their favourite wines from their cellar and tell us why they love ’em – for whatever reason.
This week, Stuart Skea trawls through his bottles at Fhior in Edinburgh.
Le Soula Rouge 2008, Cotes Catalanes, Roussillon
1An ever present on the Fhior list since opening – both BTG and Bottle, this is a great seller that delivers serious complexity and maturity at an accessible price. Located in the foothills of the Pyrenees, the Fenouillèdes, on decomposed schists and granite between 440-600m above sea level this is wonderfully earthy and savoury with dense black fruit but a remarkable freshness and minerality.
Mountain wine. Proper wine…
Rafael Palacios, Louro do Bolo, Valdeorras 2017
2A wine that really overdelivers, with weight, texture, richness and complexity yet with an unmistakeable Galician signature. Rafael Palacios farms a variety of small plots -“sortes” in the Bibei valley in Valdeorras, Galicia. Working with native grapes, chiefly Godello, these are high altitude, terraced vineyards on decomposed granite.
This is a wine that is remarkably versatile and food friendly and satisfies those looking for a glass of white Burgundy or something a little different equally well.
JP Brun Domaine des Terres Dorées Le Ronsay, Beaujolais, France 2018
3Vinified like Pinot Noir rather than using the sadly ubiquitous carbonic maceration, this is outrageous value, delivering a lot of wine for the money. It is all you want from Beaujolais, and more – juicy and quaffable with lovely raspberry fruit.
It’s a perfect lunchtime quaffer but also seriously complex and elegant. It’s properly farmed and made.
The Eyrie Vineyards, Dundee Hills Pinot Noir, Oregon, USA 2015
4Softly-spoken and gentle, this graceful, ethereal Pinot harkens back to a lost world of Burgundy rather than brash new world fruit. David Lett pioneered vineyard plantings in the Willamette valley in the 1960’s with marijuana barons as his neighbours for many years before today’s explosion of vineyards. Son Jason continues the exemplary, sensitive approach in the winery and vineyards.
I have to admit that we don’t sell a huge amount of this haunting wine, but goddamn it, I love it – and those guests that try it enjoy a transcendental, spiritual experience. Sublime…
Bodegas Fulcro, Finca a Pedreira, Rias Baixas, Spain 2019
5A hot seller for us BTG and bottle this is an exemplary Albarino. From a 1ha plot of old vines in the Salnes valley on poor granite soils this is direct and pithy with a lovely saline character and beautiful texture on the palate from just a touch of barrel-fermented fruit and extended lees ageing.
I will retire before I sell Kiwi SB and this is a more than satisfying alternative. Tension, tension, tension…